Simple Recession Cooking: French Dishes
Money, Nutrition | November 6th, 2009 by Emily MonacoI have a confession to make: I don’t shop at gourmet specialty stores.
And it gets worse. I also don’t shop at outdoor markets, farmers’ markets, organic stores, or even the organic aisle of the regular grocery store.
I love to cook, but I’m a student working as an intern (read: unpaid labor) during a recession. I don’t have any money to put toward San Marzano tomatoes, good Parmesan cheese, or even expensive ham. I buy a lot of cheap brands, stock up during sales, and tend to peruse the butcher’s case for whatever is on sale. To my friends, I’m some sort of gourmet cook; to my boyfriend “une vraie cuisinière.” But most people who consider themselves to be gourmet would look at my shopping choices and balk.
The truth of the matter is that my way of shopping and cooking is perfect for the economic time we’re living in, though, and it’s not the first time that people have relied on technique instead of high-quality ingredients to make dinnertime special.
Don’t get me wrong: I love the fact that the trend in recipes today is to call for “the best” tomatoes, beef, herbs, etc. But some of us can’t afford to seek out the best organic produce for a weeknight dinner. Italian recipes, for example, demand high-quality ingredients. But I look to one of the other highly regarded schools of cooking, the French, for my inspiration.
Italian vs. French
So many Italian recipes seem daunting to the home cook because of the relatively small number of ingredients. Melone e prosciutto or insalata caprese are two dishes that are little more than the sum of their parts: excellent melon and Parma ham or tomatoes and buffalo-milk mozzarella are all you need to make these dishes shine. (Note: The food of the Italian poor is much closer to the cuisine to which I am referring. Dishes like panzanella were invented to get the most out of every ingredient.)
French recipes, on the other hand, often call for making complicated sauces or cooking things for hours on end, something that can seem even more daunting than shelling out for buffalo mozzarella. The secret is that many of these recipes feature ingredients that are available to all home cooks, even those who are just shopping at the tiny local grocery store. These recipes were developed in an economic climate like ours, where expensive meat had to be stretched as far as possible and taste had to be found in even the most unassuming, basic ingredients.
Of course, the techniques I’m describing as “complicated” really aren’t that bad, as Julia Child proved to us so many years ago, and with a little bit of practice, you can produce gourmet dishes, even on a recession budget. Here are a few to get you started, but you should definitely look into Julia and other American chefs who have mastered the art of French cooking and put out books in cups and tablespoons–and in English!
1. Roux
French cuisine often seems to be based in heavy, creamy sauces. While this is not always the case, many French dishes find their bases in a simple roux: butter cooked with flour and used as a thickening agent. Once you master the technique of the roux, it can be used to thicken anything, from sauce to stew. Simply cook equal parts of butter and flour over medium heat, stirring to keep smooth. When the flour just begins to darken from white to pale yellow, it’s cooked, and the paste can be used to thicken liquids. Adding warmed milk to the mixture makes one of the most quintessential of French sauces: béchamel.
2. The Maillard Reaction
The best way to coax flavor out of any cut of meat is to remember that brown on the outside means flavor. Use a very hot pan to sear meat on the outside before you proceed with any dish.
3. Slow Cooking
The popularity of slow cookers and pressure cookers means that many of these classic dishes have already come out of the woodwork, but even just a sturdy pot with a lid can start you on your way to beef bourguignonne, a sort of French stew made with red wine. These dishes are very forgiving: just brown your meat (cheap, tough cuts of meat work well because they’re full of flavor), add liquid such as wine, and cook for two to five hours. Add root vegetables or onions, keeping in mind that browning on the outside caramelizes the sugars in vegetables and is therefore a good idea.








